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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.